Will Bosi, 23, from Edinburgh has claimed the third ascent of Alphane in Ticino, Switzerland. The problem was established by Shawn Raboutou in Spring 2022 and was given the proposed
grade of V17, making it at the time.
It was only the third route in the world after Nalle Hukkataival’s Burden of Dreams in Finland and Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker at Red Rocks to be given V17. Neither Burden of Dreams or Return of Sleepwalker have been repeated. Big Island Sit, first established by Simon Lorenzi in Fontainebleau, was originally proposed V17, but has been subsequently been downgraded by Nico Pelorson in 2021.
Bosi was on a trip with Aidan Roberts who claimed the second ascent earlier in October, having worked the line earlier in the year. Overall, Bosi spent 10 sessions working Alphane and two sessions previously last year with Raboutou, where he explored and worked moves on the boulder before the final line and sequence was established.
“A few sessions back I was unsure as to whether Alphane would go on this trip, the temperature has been unseasonably hot, some rainy days had made it really humid and the route was damp in places,” said Bosi. “However, the crew out here managed to keep the psyche really high and the problem came together quickly. The moves on this line are so good and after a lot of time on the wall, I was really happy to claim the third ascent.”
About the grade, Bosi said, “In terms of a grade, I personally felt that Honey Badger V16 was more of a challenge for me and proposing a grade for that at the time was daunting as it was my first V16. At the cutting edge of climbing, grading feels so much more difficult as the margins are that much finer and personal strengths and preferences really come into play. Is it 9A? Honestly, I do not know and as I gain more experience of climbing around this grade range I may have a better view, but it is a fantastic line established by Shawn and I look forward to seeing more experienced climbers comment on where the grade sits.”
The ascent of Alphane is another milestone for Bosi since his decision to switch full time to climbing outdoors. This spring, Bosi had a hugely productive trip to the Czech Republic to climb with Adam Ondra, where Bosi onsighted V14; and in summer, he established the Peak District’s hardest boulder problem, Honey Badger at Badger Cove.
This is the 12th problem graded V15 or higher by Bosi in 2022: Alphane V17 Honey Badger V15 FA, Beautiful Mind V15 FA, Outliers V15 FA, Trance V15 FA, Silent Singer V15, Iceberg V15, Tekute Stesti V15, Ghost Rider V15, Bulbasaur V15 FA, Pata Ledovce V15, and Drift V15.
Honey Badger FA
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